My films are never about what Hong Kong is like, or anything approaching a realistic portrait, but what I think about Hong Kong and what I want it to be.
Write your story here. (Optional)
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so, so, so many mobile phones
hole-in-the-wall stores
stacked with teetering piles of detritus
everyone’s a taxi driver
a gangster
a fashion victim
a trolley-pushing
impeccable snap-back MLB cap-sporting
dirty apron-wiping
cheap cigarette-smoking
vertical-living
smog-breathing denizen
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Graham Street Market, in the ‘Central’ area of Hong Kong, does its noisy, messy, smelly, vibrant business on a narrow thoroughfare in the shadow of tumbledown retail buildings and gleaming multinational corporate headquarters alike.
Named after… frankly, who cares?
…I know a couple of Grahams. Lovely blokes. But you don’t go out to motivate armies, put fear into the hearts of men, score the winning goal / touchdown / basket / etc, woo the beautiful / handsome gal / guy with a name like Graham. OK, there are going to be exceptions, but they did it in spite of their rubbish name. [i.e. ‘A Boy Named Sue’.] Apparently it used to mean ‘gravel homestead’. I mean, you’ve got names which mean ‘Prince’ and ‘King’ and ‘Dawn Of The Firey Morning Sword’ or some inspirational crap, and then you’ve got Graham. Named after a few outbuildings and some very small rocks.
Sorry Graham. Just like any wet market with meats of questionable provenance hanging up in the mid-afternoon heat, it’s a feast for the nose as much as for the eyes. At least all of the animal is used, from tongue to tail, hooves to hearts, every part on display.
Warning: Bonus Goat™
We spotted this guy standing guard next to all manner of suspended viscera. From afar, we thought it might have been a slightly distasteful sculpture, but up close, yep, it was real. All hair and skin and gelatinous goop swinging gently in the wind.
Sorry.
What can you say about the juxtaposition of old and new in Hong Kong that hasn’t already been said? Turns out, not a lot.
In places, the footprints of some buildings are so compact and at odd angles, when you’re close up they can seem to merge together in an odd, foreshortened, M.C. Escher fashion. That is if Escher used 1970s/80s shades of pink, peach, mint and beige.
The Edward Youde Aviary. A giant tropical cage filled with over eighty species of inquisitive birds. And it’s free!
We were only there for a day and a half, and due to distracting nature of such things as ice cream and waffles (see below) I didn’t shoot much video. I put this together nonetheless.
You read that right. It’s a small kitchen with a booth for ordering your treats that does (amongst other things) ice cream and waffles. Witness the ‘Night Wolf’, below, which comprises: “Italian low fat soft gelato twisted with 66% dark chocolate, served with buttery crumbles, caramelised banana ice cream, passion fruit panna cotta, brownie and chocolate chips eggettes and crunchy flakes”. Worth the trip alone.
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Unique for being one of the few streets left in Hong Kong that still have the original granite steps, atop which the vendors sell all manner of tat / rubbish / ‘souvenirs’.
We had one chance to see the view from Victoria Peak, and that was just before we left. We had to get there early before the sun had set on a foggy evening in order to fight for a space on the viewing platform, which was cold and windy, but worth it.
Becos cats.
Don’t forget to hit the enjoy button! That is, if you enjoyed it. Thanks for reading.
© 2026 Tommy Nagle